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SILVES |
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Capital of the Moorish kings of the al-Gharb (now Algarve), SILVES
is still an imposing place and one of the few towns of inland Algarve
that merits a detour. The train station - an easy approach from Lagos or
Faro - lies 2km outside the town; there is a connecting bus, but it's
worth walking, allowing the town and its fortress to appear slowly as
you emerge from the wooded hills. Under the Moors, Silves was a place of
grandeur and industry, described in contemporary accounts as being "of
shining brightness" within its triple circuit of walls. In 1189 an army
led by Sancho I put an end to this splendour, killing some 6000 Moors in
the process. The castle is open to the public, but its ghastly past is
lost amid well-tended jacaranda trees, oleander shrubs and flowerbeds.
The impressively complete sandstone walls of the Moorish fortress (daily
9am-5/8pm; ¬1.75) retain their towers and elaborate communication system,
but the inside is disappointing: apart from the great vaulted water
cisterns that still serve the town, there's nothing left of the old
citadel. Just below the fortress is Silves' Cathedral (daily 8.30am-6pm,
Sun until 1pm), built on the site of the mosque in the thirteenth
century. Much restored and rebuilt over the years, it contains the tombs
of some of the Crusaders who died there. Flanked by two broad Gothic
towers, it has a suitably defiant and military appearance, though the
Great Earthquake of 1755 and centuries of impoverished restoration have
left their mark inside.
The tourist office , in the heart of the town on Rua 25 de Abril (daily
9.30am-12.30pm & 2-5.30pm; tel 282 442 255), will help you find a
private room . Recommended are those with Isabel Maria da Silva at Rua
Cãndido dos Reis 36 (tel 282 442 667; £10-15/$16-24/¬18-27), where you
share the use of a kitchen and a little outdoor terrace. Another
promising option is the Residencial Sousa pension at Rua Samora Barros
17 (tel 282 442 502; £20-25/$32-40/¬36-45).
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