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MAFRA

 
 
 
Connected by regular buses (timetables www.cats.pt ) from Sintra train station and from Lisbon, MAFRA is dominated by one building: the vast, newly restored, pink marble Palace-Convent (daily except Tues 10am-5pm; ¬3), built in emulation of Madrid's El Escorial in 1717 by João V, the wealthiest and most extravagant of all Portuguese monarchs. The convent was initially intended for just thirteen Franciscan friars, but as more gold poured in from Brazil, João amplified it into the world's largest basilica, two royal wings and monastic quarters for 300 monks and 150 novices. The sheer magnitude of the building is what stands out: there are 5200 doorways, 2500 windows, and two bell towers each containing over 50 bells. The highlight is the magnificent Rococo library - with its chequered marble floor - rivalling that of Coimbra in both design and grandeur. The basilica, which can be seen outside the tour, is no less imposing, with the multicoloured marble designs of its floor mirrored in the ceiling decoration.
 
 
 

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