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GETTING AROUND |
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Distances are small in Portugal and you can get almost everywhere
easily and efficiently by either train, bus or ferry. Although trains
are usually cheaper, and some lines are highly scenic, it's often
quicker to go by bus - especially on shorter or less obvious routes.
Trains
CP , the Portuguese railway company, operates all trains. About ninety
percent are designated Regional , stop at most stations en route, and
have first- and second-class cars. Intercidades are twice as fast and
twice as expensive, and you should reserve a seat if using them. The
fastest, most luxurious and priciest of all are the Rápidos (known as "
Alfa "), which speed between Lisbon, Coimbra and Porto - sometimes they
have only first-class seats. CP sells its own rail passes (valid on any
train and in first class), but you'd have to do a lot of travelling to
make them worthwhile. Both InterRail and Eurail passes are valid,
although supplements equal to the difference from a standard fare must
be paid to travel on Intercidades and Rápidos . A complete timetable of
CP services can be bought at ticket offices (¬2.50) or accessed via the
Internet at www.cp.pt .
Buses
Buses can often be more flexible than trains and fares are usually
competitive. The majority of buses used to be run by the Rodoviaria
Nacional (RN), but the company has been broken up and privatized. Most
of the former RN services leave from a town's central terminal. On a
number of major routes (particularly Lisbon-Algarve) special express
coaches can knock hours off the standard multiple-stop bus journeys.
Driving and hitching
Car rental rates in Portugal are high out of season (around ¬40-60/day)
and it is well worth looking into prices before you leave as they can
often work out cheaper. To rent a car you must be over 21 and have held
a driving licence for over a year. Beware - Portugal has the highest
road fatality rate in Europe; most accidents occur on the infamous
Lisbon-Oporto and Lisbon-Algarve motorways. August is especially lethal
when Portuguese emigrant workers return home on holiday. If you break
down you can get assistance from the Automóvel Clube de Portugal, which
has reciprocal arrangements with most other automobile clubs. In the
north, phone their Porto service (tel 22 830 1127); in the south, phone
Lisbon (tel 21 942 9103). Both operate 24 hours a day.
Hitching should generally not be a good option, not only because of the
country's high accident rate but it is often difficult to get a lift. It
is definitely not recommended for women or solo travellers.
Cycling
Although there are few facilities and little respect from motorists,
cycling is a popular sport in Portugal. Remember, however, that
everywhere north of Lisbon is hilly and you'll find pedalling hard work
in mountainous Beira Alta or across the burned plains of southern
Alentejo. The railway system provides an efficient if expensive bicycle-carrying
service; ask in advance as the service is not available on every train.
For mountain biking check out Bike Trails at www.math.science.unitn.it/Bike/Countries/Portugal/
- the site contains a description of mountain biking in the country, a
very detailed report on cycling in Portugal plus a 800km tour of the
country. |
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